Leslie Brenner
Autor von The Fourth Star: Dispatches from Inside Daniel Boulud's Celebrated New York Restaurant
Über den Autor
Leslie Brenner, author of the award-winning American Appetite, received an MFA in Creative Writing at Columbia University. Her book Review and features have appeared in The New York Times Book Review and Harper's, among others. GREETINGS FROM THE GOLDEN STATE is her first novel. (Bowker Author mehr anzeigen Biography) weniger anzeigen
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“The seviche tonight involves sea scallops, oysters, and sea urchins, with osetra caviar, pink raddish, and celery leaves in a horseradish-lime oyster water. It’s Daniel all over: clear, pure flavours that sound as though they’ll make sense, though they’re unusual in combination. Synergistic, the flavours vibrate together, creating a dish in which the whole is a thousand times greater than the sum of its parts.”
I read this on the iPhone while walking wee reader in the mornings after breakfast and I read this before bedtime, that is, after dinner. Because this book should only be read on a full stomach, although the food it describes is not food that you can stomach every day. Visions of food – the fancy type, with truffles and foie gras – dance before your eyes in every chapter. There’s also the less fancy ‘family dinner’ or what the staff themselves eat, simpler fare like tacos carnitas or pasta and salad. While the front of house strives to create a serene and a pleasant environment for the diner (really, for the super rich or famous diner, since a meal for two runs in the hundreds), it is a tense, stressful environment in the kitchen. And how can it not be, with several hundred covers at dinners, special requests, tastings, daily specials, a la carte orders, demanding VIPs (celebrities, press – even a regular who disdains all of the amazing desserts and gets a special off-menu order of tarte tatin everytime) who get all sorts of complimentary things, everyday. And that elusive ‘fourth star’, that is, the New York Times food critic’s rating of the restaurant (not long after Daniel first opened in January 1999, the New York Times gave it 3 stars. Daniel gets its four-star rating in 2001).
The Fourth Star is an entertaining read. Especially for anyone who’s interested in what goes on behind the scenes of a restaurant.
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