Betty J. Mills

Betty Mills, retired curator of the costume and textiles collection at Texas Tech University, has written a third volume in the Amanda series of fashion paper dolls, Amanda’s home on the range. Using items and artifacts from the college museum as well as written materials in Texas history, she writes Amanda’s diary, which is mostly about clothing in the context of the events of the period. L. C. Ross again illustrates the book with accurate drawings of the dolls for Amanda and Matthew along with granddaughter Mary Megan and fashions, which range from the crinoline to slimmer skirts and the bustle. Men’s fashion includes a Civil War uniform and “cowboy” work clothes. There is also a map of Texas as well as an excellent glossary of terms used in all three volumes.

As with the first two volumes, the narrative deals with how clothing is made. With the Civil War, material was scarce and new clothing impossible. But Amanda shows ingenuity in making do. And the diary covers how clothing was remade to save on fabric and be up to date. In 1871 Amanda receives an early sewing machine, the “Common Sense,” which makes sewing her clothing a bit easier.

Although the dolls and clothing can be cut out, the book is most valuable as a fashion history of Texas in the late nineteenth century. All three Amanda books, as well as Mills’ book, Calico chronicle: Texas women and their fashions 1830-1910, will serve as an historical costume record of the period.… (mehr)

Amanda’s new life is the second volume in the Amanda series of fashion history through paper dolls, written by Betty J. Mills, emerita curator of the costume and textiles collection at Texas Tech University. As with the first volume, Amanda goes west, there are paper dolls of Amanda and husband Matthew along with their three children. Illustrator L. C. Ross has provided accurate drawings of costume from 1843 to1862 for the dolls along with accesories. There is also a map showing where Amanda now lives. As with the first volume, Mills provides selections from Amanda’s diary which explain customs such as the “infare” dinner the day after a wedding. The diary also discusses how clothing is made by hand; with the lack of patterns, a dress is copied from other clothing. The custom of making pincushions for special events is discussed; pins are placed on the cushion in a design.

As with the first volume, the clothing is historically accurate to the period of Texas history covered. Amanda’s wedding dress is stunning. I was unfamiliar with maternity nursing dresses but there is one in the collection. (The description of how Amanda makes this dress is fascinating.) Amanda’s hairstyles are also accurate to the period. Sleeve styles change in the period and do skirt widths. An army uniform from the Mexican American War is also included in the book. In addition to fashionable wear, work clothing is pictured.

The dolls and clothing can be cut out for play or the book may be used as an accurate look at Texas fashion for the period.… (mehr)

When I was younger, I was fascinated with paper dolls and had a large collection; my favorite was the coronation set of Queen Elizabeth and her family. Later when I was in college, my mother cleaned up and threw them out along with my dollhouse furniture and other treasured items. Years later, I spotted this book in the gift shop of a museum. Blending my love of fashion history and paper dolls, it was a perfect fit for me.

Betty Mills, retired curator of the costume and textiles collection at Texas Tech University, has put together “a journal of fashion history through paper dolls,” focusing on early Texas life and using the vast collection of the museum. In book 1, Amanda goes west, Mills writes the diary of Amanda Mills from 1838, when the family leaves Tennessee to settle in Columbus, Texas to her engagement to Matthew Ritter, a Texas settler originally from Pennsylvania, in 1842. The narrative, in addition to Texas life, includes information on Amanda’s and Matthew’s clothing as well as items of daily use such as a hand mirror, sewing box, hope chest, Bible, and Christmas decorations from the period. Ms. Mills also provides a map so the trip can be followed.

There are two dolls, Amanda and Matthew, along with clothing of the period and artifacts used by Amanda. Illustrator L. C. Ross has done a good job in recreating the clothing from underwear, nightgown, aprons, shawls to work clothes and party dresses, bonnets and shoes. Although not easy for a child to cut out, the book could be used for play. Or it could serve as a book on fashion and life of the period with its accurate description of clothing styles and customs. I was impressed that the drawings of the hairstyles were accurate, right down to the part in the middle!

For those who would like more information on Texas fashions, Mills has written several scholarly books, including Calico chronicle: Texas women and their fashions 1830-1910. With an interest in fashion history as well as paper dolls, this book is a perfect blend of the two and can be recommended.… (mehr)