Ed Viesturs

It needs to be said that K2 may be the second highest mountain in the world, but it is arguably the most dangerous mountain to summit. Beyond unpredictable weather and inhospitable traverses, language barriers, varying climbing skills (and, let's be honest, knowledge), and clashing egos of the climbers make the mountain even more treacherous. Viesturs and Roberts cover six different campaigns to climb K2. At times these campaigns are confusing to read about because they include details from other mountain climbs (like Everest) and the timelines jump around.
The most enjoyable passages were when Viesturs and Roberts outlined the changed in technology and climbing gear. It makes earlier successes of summitting K2 even more impressive.… (mehr)

Ed Viesturs is an accomplished high-altitude mountaineer who has summited all fourteen of the world’s peaks over 8000 meters. K2, the world’s second highest peak at 8,611 meters (28,251 feet), is located in the Korakoram Range of northern Pakistan. It is considered one of the most difficult and dangerous peaks to climb. This book not only tells of Viesturs’ ascent of K2 in 1992, but also recounts the history of six other K2 expeditions up to 2009, including an assessment of successes, catastrophes, and controversies. It gives the reader a good idea of what it would have been like to be part of such an expedition. It provides an interesting look at the improvements in climbing materials and the evolution of climbing strategies over the years. A couple of the more riveting sections include an account of the avalanche that sent Viesturs and climbing partner Scott Fisher plummeting down the mountain, and the analysis of the 2008 tragedy that resulted in the deaths of eleven climbers.

Viesturs expresses pointed opinions about his philosophy of climbing as well as what may have gone wrong in expeditions that resulted in tragedy. He concentrates on lessons that can be applied to high altitude climbing, with an emphasis on getting back safely. He illustrates the value of weighing risks, relying on instincts, showing loyalty to the team, leading from the front, and taking prompt action to save others in distress. He takes exception to some of the analyses provided by the press and other “armchair adventurers” and backs up his opinions drawing on a mix of logic, common sense, and experience. The narrative moves between materials written by others and Viesturs’ own experiences, weaving them together to make his points.

It assumes the reader already possesses at least a rudimentary knowledge of climbing terminology. Recommended to those interested in the history of mountaineering, active climbers who want to learn from the experiences of others, or fans of extreme adventures.
… (mehr)