Cutting paper

Just received a copy of the LEC edition of Jonson’s Volpone (1952). Simply a gorgeous volume: linen binding with rust color design, all-rag paper that takes the impress of the type very palpably, with color illustrations by Rene ben Sussan that are so vivid I worried they would smudge when I first touched them.

Here’s my problem: the pages are uncut. Mostly just the top edges; a previous owner appears to have cut most of the front edges. I am very nervous about damaging the book when I try to separate the remaining edges myself. I have consulted a previous thread from this group (https://www.librarything.com/topic/158576) about cutting pages, and confess that I am a little bewildered by the differing suggestions. People suggest using, among other things:

a surgical blade
a professional grade chef’s knife
a bookbinder’s knife
an envelope opener
a playing card
a credit card
a sharp kitchen knife

Each of these options seems to have yielded success for some people, and disaster for others. Worse still, some people on this thread suggest that rag paper is especially susceptible to tearing and ripping when its pages are cut.

Of course, I’ll eventually just have to choose an option and plunge in. Before I do, I wondered if anyone here has recent experience cutting rag paper and particular methods to endorse (or warn against)?

I don't care what anybody says, do NOT use a sharp edge of any kind to cut those pages!!!!!!! It opens (pardon the pun) too many chances of disaster when cutting leaves open AND it leaves a sharp-edged cut. I use an artist's palette knife like this. It leaves a slightly fuzzy edge which is not only safer (less likely to cause a paper cut) but is esthetically more pleasing, at least in the opinion of not just myself, but that of many bookbinders as well.

I have used this tool for many years with no ill effects and no disasters.

Cheers!

>2 Glacierman: Have you noticed a different response from softer vs. stiffer paper?

>1 Eumnestes: I have opened a few books (not LECs) with no disasters yet. Keep the book on the counter so you aren't balancing book and implement. And—I might mention adequate lighting and the right pair of glasses—very important to me, at least!

>3 maisiedotes: Yes. The heavier the paper, the greater care needed. Take it slow and easy, which is good advice for any kind of paper really. And you are right to put the book on a table top or other stable surface to perform the cutting.

A credit card or playing card has the right kind of edge, but a playing card is a bit flimsy and could fold on you and both are small and not as easy to get a grip on as is the handle of the palette knife. Either of them could be used in a pinch, but I really think that palette knife is worth the few bucks it costs and is much easier to use.

I agree with >2 Glacierman: Glacierman that a sharp knife isn’t what you want. I use a kitchen butter knife above the serrations and I’ve found it reliable. Early experiments with sharp knives proved terrible. I have asked for an old-fashioned letter opener for Christmas as that would be just like the butter knife, but make me feel more legit.

>2 Glacierman: Interesting. I notice on the webpage your response linked to that there is also a "paper knife" for sale, with a wider, rounder blade. You prefer the palette knife to that?

>6 Eumnestes: I have no experience with that particular blade. It is possible that it would work as well or better for opening signatures. I'd be willing to give it a try, though, so you might want to check it out yourself.

>1 Eumnestes: I've tried a few of these options, and my favorite tool has become a cheap machete of all things. One of the best ways to avoid rough edges is to open as much of the sheet as possible with a single stroke, rather than any sawing motion, so a longer blade helps, and most machetes are not that sharp, which results in a more even cut.

Maybe there is some technique to do a single long stroke with a bookbinder's knife, but all the options I have seen have relatively short blades.

Also using what is basically a sword to open books is sort of fun.

>8 abysswalker: Well, different strokes for different folks! Can't say I would recommend that, but if it works for you, keep on truckin' !

>8 abysswalker: Well, wielding a machete would probably command new respect from my family.

Thanks, everyone, for the advice so far!

I simply do not purchase uncut books any more. I tried carefully cutting two books, followed advice from so-and-so and so-and-so and it was a disaster! Might of course have just been me, but I warn you right now it is far more challenging than you might think, good luck.

>12 astropi: I've cut over two dozen books without any trouble. I usually use a new playing card but I've also had success with a letter opener. I would never use a sharp blade. The Defense of Gracchus Babeuf was the most recent book that I've done.

>13 kdweber: In my case a sharp blade, letter opener, and playing card did not work. Again, may have been just me, but never again!

I have successfully used the paper card method shown in the video below on several of my LEC volumes. The edge of the card wears relatively quickly and it is important to replace it as soon edge is no longer smooth, otherwise you might tear the pages of your book. It is important to always cut in an outward motion and i found it helpful to put one hand on top of the page that I cut. I’ve never tried playing cards, which have a thicker edge then the paper cards shown in the video.

https://youtu.be/VU7lqM6NfQo

>14 astropi: I have used the card method and the sharp knife method, and to me the most important thing is the method used in cutting. You have to keep the paper flat and you have to keep tension on the edge you are cutting. The problem with the sharp knife method is that if you do no keep perfect tension on the edge you are cutting the knife will wander from the crease and will easily cut where you do not want the paper to be cut. You get less of this with the card method, partly because the card will not cut into the paper as easily. You also have to be aware that if you have a finished edge (stained or gilt) that is uncut, that cutting will leave a white line in the middle of the color. I had that happen with a copy of one volume of The Lord of the Rings. You have to decide if you would rather have the nice finished top or an opened book. I guess you might try to find a stain to match what is already on the book, but you will never get it to be a perfect match.

>16 Bernarrd: I think a book that was gilt while unopened is probably a production issue? I don't think that should happen. The point of gilding is to create a protective layer around the page edges, after all.

>12 astropi: Just curious—what were the books and were you able to improve their appearance somehow?

>17 abysswalker:
I was less charitably going to write that a book never to be opened is just a decorated brick!

>15 Stephan68: Striking video. She makes it look so easy.

>15 Stephan68: Good video. That is the technique I use with my palette knife. Some papers cut more readily than others. This is especially true of old books, like the one she was cutting. Newer papers, especially hand made papers, require more force and therefore, greater care. The advantage of the palette knife is that the edge does not wear as does the edge of a file card, and it is also stiffer allowing one to maintain the pressure quite easily. A firm, even stroke works best.

Remember to "keep the paper flat and . . . keep tension on the edge you are cutting." (quoting >16 Bernarrd: above)

I have had one disaster where the tool went astray and I ended up cutting deep into the section. This was because I used a SHARP knife and when I encountered a slight change in the paper texture that required a bit more pressure, the knife took on a life of its own and before I could stop, I'd pretty well butchered that section. It required quite a bit of repair work to fix the problem, but that book is forever marred. I got the palette knife soon after and haven't had a problem since.

>17 abysswalker: You are probably right. But it does happen every now and then.

>1 Eumnestes:

I've never had any problems. Opened my entire 37 volume LEC shakespeare set with maybe one tiny rip when I was first learning. Just use a letter opener, preferably a little dull but I've used sharper ones and had decent results too. The dull letter opener works better b/c it really should be more of a tearing motion than a cutting motion. If you find yourself "cutting" or "sawing" through the paper, stop immediately.

The problem with using a postcard is it wears out quickly and a worn out postcard will probably cause more rips than not. A credit card is ok for shorter books but you're going to have problems with larger page sizes like the LEC shakespeare I mention above.

Has anyone had any success using a ruler?

Well, I finely did it, with pretty good success. I ended up using an index card, or, rather, about a dozen of them, to cut open the pages. As MobyRichard and others warned, the edge of the cards quickly dulls. I switched them out pretty often, but not quickly enough in one case, creating a 1/2" tear on the inner corner of the page (page 79, when Corvino is prostituting his wife Celia to Volpone). Except for that tear, the result looks good, and I'm grateful to be able to actually read the book. My great thanks to everyone on this thread for the helpful advice offered!

>25 Eumnestes: Bravo! The next book will be less scary.

I’ve repaired tears with a bit of Lineco glue. It’s much less visible than mending tissue.

The important thing is to pick a tool from those recommended and use it carefully. Whatever works for you!
I love my palette knife for opening sections, others prefer index cards, credit cards, etc. Just use it carefully.

Good for you! Again, my advice for what it's worth is to avoid this whole situation and just purchase a book that has all its pages already cut :)

>28 astropi: There are always exceptions, however. 😀

As someone who bought and sold books for years, I have seen quite a few books over 40 plus years of book buying. And I have found that although I have run across a few books that were completely unopened, I have run across more books that had only some part of the pages unopened. And of course more books that have already been opened, either by the maker, or by a previous owner. I have also run across a number of books that were very carelessly opened by a previous owner who did damage to the pages. I would rather have to open some pages, than have a damaged book. With most books that have trimmed edges, the pages should all be open. There are of course exceptions where the edges of some pages did not stick out as far as the rest and were not trimmed along with the rest.

>30 Bernarrd: And I only started buying "nice" books last year! I'm very grateful for this community.

Have you done any repairs?

>31 maisiedotes: Only very minor things. I will fix a short tear with glue and maybe repair a popped hinge. But if it looks like it could go wrong, or if it is an expensive book, I usually take it to my bookbinder. I usually will do the type of thing she would not want to do. Something like remove tape or labels, if possible. She tells me I should not remove library marks. And I say, that people will still know the book was from a library. I just try to make the book look a little better on the shelf. She says if I make it look too good, the person that buys the book may not mention the books flaws when they sell it. I can only speak for myself, but I try to mention all flaws when selling a book. I can't help what someone else may do. I even mentioned that a book may have had the end pages replaced because they did not seem quite right. But who knows if they were or were not.

>32 Bernarrd: Thanks. It's nice to know about other devotees who do minor repairs. I'm always sorely tempted to tinker with my books, none of which are expensive, but I don't want to be met with an eyesore every time I pick up the book.

>33 maisiedotes: Well my advice is to try some repairs on volumes you can't hurt too much first. It is always best to test how something will go before jumping in, especially if you have no experience. I like to find books with little value to try something out on, before trying it on a better book.