Lam's collection of essays are a thoughtful attempt to negotiate what it means to be an immigrant, particularly a Vietnamese immigrant, living in the culturally diverse city of San Francisco, and in a larger sense, in America itself.

The subjects of the chapters are disparate, ranging from food - which crops up several times, to cultural trends both in the East and the West, and the mixture and blending of cultures. Unfortunately, this can make it seem disjointed at parts and lacking a central underlying theme. There was one there, but the line was lost a few times that made me wonder why certain chapters were included, particularly near the end.

His writing, too, can seem flowery at parts and ranges into poetical, but with the brusque style endemic to journalists. His strength, both conceptually and in his writing, is when he focused on either a more academic look at his subject, or when he relates very concrete, personal recollections. His chapter regarding the Vietnam War memorial erected in San Francisco and his recollections of fleeing the country when he was young are the most moving and memorable chapters. The Vietnam War has perhaps lost its cultural impact with my generation, and most certainly with the upcoming generation, but Lam's memories and stories were poignant in an understated way.

The book also may invite criticism from other areas. A common complaint levied against multiculturalism is the emphasis on food. Rightfully, I think, critics believe that appreciating food is not indicative of acceptance, or even tolerance, as a whole, and Lam's preoccupation with the subject would seem to suggest that he believes that accepting food is indicative of a larger move toward embracing other cultures. This is more evident when he speaks of San Francisco. At other times, like a wonderful chapter on finding pho in the most unlikely places, simply suggest the comfort of finding a familiar comfort food and what a diaspora looks like.

His chapter on refugees and the optimism of Obama's election also may smack of naivete, particularly in the current political clime. Still, maybe it's good to read that optimism and remember what we are working toward. ( )