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Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

von Barry Estabrook

MitgliederRezensionenBeliebtheitDurchschnittliche BewertungDiskussionen
4691952,319 (3.94)20
Cooking & Food. Essays. Nonfiction. HTML:

2012 IACP Award Winner in the Food Matters category

Supermarket produce sections bulging with a year-round supply of perfectly round, bright red-orange tomatoes have become all but a national birthright. But in Tomatoland, which is based on his James Beard Award-winning article, "The Price of Tomatoes," investigative food journalist Barry Estabrook reveals the huge human and environmental cost of the $5 billion fresh tomato industry. Fields are sprayed with more than one hundred different herbicides and pesticides. Tomatoes are picked hard and green and artificially gassed until their skins acquire a marketable hue. Modern plant breeding has tripled yields, but has also produced fruits with dramatically reduced amounts of calcium, vitamin A, and vitamin C, and tomatoes that have fourteen times more sodium than the tomatoes our parents enjoyed. The relentless drive for low costs has fostered a thriving modern-day slave trade in the United States. How have we come to this point?

Estabrook traces the supermarket tomato from its birthplace in the deserts of Peru to the impoverished town of Immokalee, Florida, a.k.a. the tomato capital of the United States. He visits the laboratories of seedsmen trying to develop varieties that can withstand the rigors of agribusiness and still taste like a garden tomato, and then moves on to commercial growers who operate on tens of thousands of acres, and eventually to a hillside field in Pennsylvania, where he meets an obsessed farmer who produces delectable tomatoes for the nation's top restaurants.

Throughout Tomatoland, Estabrook presents a who's who cast of characters in the tomato industry: the avuncular octogenarian whose conglomerate grows one out of every eight tomatoes eaten in the United States; the ex-Marine who heads the group that dictates the size, color, and shape of every tomato shipped out of Florida; the U.S. attorney who has doggedly prosecuted human traffickers for the past decade; and the Guatemalan peasant who came north to earn money for his parents' medical bills and found himself enslaved for two years.

Tomatoland reads like a suspenseful whodunit as well as an expose of today's agribusiness systems and the price we pay as a society when we take taste and thought out of our food purchases.

.
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Very good book although it became pretty tiresome after yet another anecdote about worker mistreatment.It felt like 100! Was a bit uneven in spots. For instance, he seems to blithely ignore that, at least for some people, tomatoes not easy to grow at home (poor soil, pests, etc). Nor does he talk about the diversity in seed catalogs and why it persists. But I did enjoy the comprehensive history lesson about a vegetable (excuse me, I meant to say fruit) that I never before thought much about ( )
  donwon | Jan 22, 2024 |
Originally published in 2011.
  MissysBookshelf | Sep 1, 2023 |
Just a couple of chapters in so far... and it is much more gripping than I'd expected.
( )
  l.mcd | Jan 1, 2023 |
Who knew that tomatoes were so FASCINATING? Man. I'm so glad that I decided to give this book a shot. As a first time heirloom tomato grower, I feel like this book was just made for me to read right now. So much information on everything from tomato harvesting practices (and the shady hiring practices that go along with them on big farms), tomato genetics, and even stories from small farms. I loved this. ( )
  roses7184 | Sep 25, 2018 |
I thought this was going to be a biography of the tomato, but it turned out to be more social commentary and expose than biography. Most of the chapters in the book were about how the pursuit of the perfect red sphere for year-round purchase in the grocery store resulted in fruit with no taste and a system in which the farm workers were exploited and in many cases reduced to states of slavery. There were portions of the book that touched on genetics of the fruit and the history of the fruit, but most of the book was about current social and cultural issues regarding worker safety and just plain slavery. At the end of the book the author tells the reader that some of the worst conditions for workers are now, finally, being addressed, and that because of the popularity of farmer's markets the good tasting fruit is making a comeback. A good portion of this book was made up of chapters that appeared as articles in some well known food magazines. The kernel of this book was an article written for Gourmet under the editorship of Ruth Reichl. This book is well worth reading, just don't expect it to be about the tomato or how it is grown. Only a small portion of the story is a natural history biography the rest is social, political, and cultural. Bottom line - don't buy tomatos from a grocery store in January. Buy them at a local farmers market in August. The time of year in which they were meant to be eaten. ( )
  benitastrnad | Jun 29, 2016 |
hinzugefügt von doomjesse | bearbeitenNew York Times, Dwight Garner (Jul 5, 2011)
 
hinzugefügt von doomjesse | bearbeitenWashington Post, Jane Black (Jun 10, 2011)
 
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For the men and women who pick the food we eat
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My obituary's headline would have read "Food Writer Killed by Flying Tomato."
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Cooking & Food. Essays. Nonfiction. HTML:

2012 IACP Award Winner in the Food Matters category

Supermarket produce sections bulging with a year-round supply of perfectly round, bright red-orange tomatoes have become all but a national birthright. But in Tomatoland, which is based on his James Beard Award-winning article, "The Price of Tomatoes," investigative food journalist Barry Estabrook reveals the huge human and environmental cost of the $5 billion fresh tomato industry. Fields are sprayed with more than one hundred different herbicides and pesticides. Tomatoes are picked hard and green and artificially gassed until their skins acquire a marketable hue. Modern plant breeding has tripled yields, but has also produced fruits with dramatically reduced amounts of calcium, vitamin A, and vitamin C, and tomatoes that have fourteen times more sodium than the tomatoes our parents enjoyed. The relentless drive for low costs has fostered a thriving modern-day slave trade in the United States. How have we come to this point?

Estabrook traces the supermarket tomato from its birthplace in the deserts of Peru to the impoverished town of Immokalee, Florida, a.k.a. the tomato capital of the United States. He visits the laboratories of seedsmen trying to develop varieties that can withstand the rigors of agribusiness and still taste like a garden tomato, and then moves on to commercial growers who operate on tens of thousands of acres, and eventually to a hillside field in Pennsylvania, where he meets an obsessed farmer who produces delectable tomatoes for the nation's top restaurants.

Throughout Tomatoland, Estabrook presents a who's who cast of characters in the tomato industry: the avuncular octogenarian whose conglomerate grows one out of every eight tomatoes eaten in the United States; the ex-Marine who heads the group that dictates the size, color, and shape of every tomato shipped out of Florida; the U.S. attorney who has doggedly prosecuted human traffickers for the past decade; and the Guatemalan peasant who came north to earn money for his parents' medical bills and found himself enslaved for two years.

Tomatoland reads like a suspenseful whodunit as well as an expose of today's agribusiness systems and the price we pay as a society when we take taste and thought out of our food purchases.

.

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