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Ottoman Embroidery

von Roderick Taylor

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The Ottoman Turks, rulers of what was one of the world's greatest empires, had a passion for decoration that manifested itself in every aspect of their lives, not least in the textiles with which they adorned themselves, their homes, and palaces. Ottoman Embroidery is the first book ever to look at the whole range of embroidered textiles produced within this important and highly influential culture, from the commonest leggings and handkerchiefs to the costliest robes and decorated tents. It draws widely on textiles from both private and museum collections in Europe, Turkey and the United States of America. Throughout the main period of the Ottoman Empire-from the capture of Istanbul in 1453 to the creation of the Turkish Republic in 1923-textiles were the most important and valuable element in international trade. Embroidery by hand was the usual form of textile decoration, and this persisted alongside machine embroidery into the early years of the 20th century. Ottoman embroidery is distinguished by the boldness and richness of both pattern and color, always handled with great assurance and an innate design sense, especially when combined, as it invariably is, with great technical skill. What adds to its fascination is the fact that historical changes in society and the mixture of cultural influences are so often reflected in the textiles. The sumptuous and confident use of shapes and colors is beautifully borne out in the 140 color photographs that bring alive the lucid and well informed text. The book's chief focus is the various forms of embroidered domestic textiles, although it also looks at larger, more public textiles made for the palaces and the civil services. Geographically, the focus is on the embroideries made in the Turkish mainland in Asia and Europe, but some work produced further afield in the Empire showing influences of the Ottoman styles is also included. … (mehr)
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  CathyLockhart | Sep 30, 2022 |
Taylor may be a well-educated man and extensive collector of Ottoman embroidery. But while the volume appears to be scholarly and well researched in its approach, it isn't. Unfortunately his discussions of fibers, fabrics, clothing, and embroidery techniques leave much to be desired. Taylor makes sweeping statements about the whole of the Ottoman Empire, when the information actually pertains only to a narrow and limited period. He is clearly ill informed about Ottoman clothing, applying ideas to over 400 years that are only relevant to the 19th century. His information about the history of the fibers and weaving techniques are sketchy at best and inaccurate at worst.

The two chapters, "Islamic Style" and "Infidel Style", are frustrating. Each one introduces interesting and valuable topics. But what follows is shallow and superficial.

The photographs are beautiful and will please anyone interested in the topic covered. But there is more detailed and accurate information on historical, social, and cultural context, on textile history and techniques, and on embroidery techniques in Sumru Krody, "Flowers of Silk and Gold , from the Textile Museum", and Marianne Ellis and Jennifer Wearden, also titled "Ottoman Embroidery", but from the Victoria and Albert Museum. ( )
  lilinah | Feb 21, 2009 |
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The Ottoman Turks, rulers of what was one of the world's greatest empires, had a passion for decoration that manifested itself in every aspect of their lives, not least in the textiles with which they adorned themselves, their homes, and palaces. Ottoman Embroidery is the first book ever to look at the whole range of embroidered textiles produced within this important and highly influential culture, from the commonest leggings and handkerchiefs to the costliest robes and decorated tents. It draws widely on textiles from both private and museum collections in Europe, Turkey and the United States of America. Throughout the main period of the Ottoman Empire-from the capture of Istanbul in 1453 to the creation of the Turkish Republic in 1923-textiles were the most important and valuable element in international trade. Embroidery by hand was the usual form of textile decoration, and this persisted alongside machine embroidery into the early years of the 20th century. Ottoman embroidery is distinguished by the boldness and richness of both pattern and color, always handled with great assurance and an innate design sense, especially when combined, as it invariably is, with great technical skill. What adds to its fascination is the fact that historical changes in society and the mixture of cultural influences are so often reflected in the textiles. The sumptuous and confident use of shapes and colors is beautifully borne out in the 140 color photographs that bring alive the lucid and well informed text. The book's chief focus is the various forms of embroidered domestic textiles, although it also looks at larger, more public textiles made for the palaces and the civil services. Geographically, the focus is on the embroideries made in the Turkish mainland in Asia and Europe, but some work produced further afield in the Empire showing influences of the Ottoman styles is also included. 

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