What to see and do if you can't stay long· Lodging for every budget--grand hotels, converted mansions, and small pensions· Ristorantes, trattorias, osterias, and other great places to eat· Walking tours, with visits to churches, museums, and historic neighborhoods· Insider tips on the most famous sights, including ancient Rome and the Vatican· The best shops, arts, and night spots· Day trips to Ostia Antica, Tivoli, Tuscia· Special feature--maps of dining, lodging, sights, shopping