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Baghdad Sketches (Marlboro Travel) (1937)

von Freya Stark

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Freya Stark first journeyed to Iraq in 1927. Seven years after the establishment of the British Mandate, the modern state was in its infancy and worlds apart from the country it has since become. During her many years in Iraq, Stark was witness to the rise and fall of the British involvement in the country as well as the early years of independence. Typically--and controversially--she chose to live outside the close-knit western expatriate scene and immersed herself in the way of life of ordinary Iraqis--living in the "native" quarter of the city and spending time with its tribal sheikhs and leaders. Venturing out of Baghdad, she traveled to Mosul, Nineveh, Tikrit and Najaf, where she perceptively describes the millennia-old tensions between Sunni and Shi'a. In the 1940s she returned again, this time traveling south, to the Marsh Arabs, whose way of life has now all but disappeared; north into Kurdistan and later, Kuwait, in the days before the oil boom.… (mehr)
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A collection of 31 short articles, sketches as Stark describes them, most of which appeared in the Baghdad Times in 1931, but with eight later articles written about fiv years later prior to publication as a book in 1937.
Being newspaper articles they vary widely in subject matter, although most relate to Iraq, some recount visits to Kuwait (fascinating) and travelling through Syria. However they are all enchanting, noticing the advantages and disadvantages of both the original habits of the Iraqi peoples, as well as modernising (1930’s) Western habits. Although from an acknowledged privileged position, these sketches provide an insight into a rapidly disappearing society, especially of the Beduin (sic).
The Nisibin Road article and the early articles describing Stark’s first impressions of Iraq were my favourite, but overall the articles provide a fascinating historic snapshot of a changing society. ( )
  CarltonC | Mar 30, 2020 |
The writing style is not that easy to follow and I really don't like that orientalist tone but overall it draws sketches of Iraqis cities that I am sure are completely changed. ( )
  aborham | Nov 26, 2017 |
this was avery pleasant read. The author has a wonderful way with words. It is so descriptive, you can almost smell the desert winds! ( )
  Bedste | Jun 10, 2007 |
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In a very short time a railway will link Baghdad with Europe.
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Freya Stark first journeyed to Iraq in 1927. Seven years after the establishment of the British Mandate, the modern state was in its infancy and worlds apart from the country it has since become. During her many years in Iraq, Stark was witness to the rise and fall of the British involvement in the country as well as the early years of independence. Typically--and controversially--she chose to live outside the close-knit western expatriate scene and immersed herself in the way of life of ordinary Iraqis--living in the "native" quarter of the city and spending time with its tribal sheikhs and leaders. Venturing out of Baghdad, she traveled to Mosul, Nineveh, Tikrit and Najaf, where she perceptively describes the millennia-old tensions between Sunni and Shi'a. In the 1940s she returned again, this time traveling south, to the Marsh Arabs, whose way of life has now all but disappeared; north into Kurdistan and later, Kuwait, in the days before the oil boom.

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