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The Lunatic Express: An Entertainment in Imperialism.

von Charles Miller

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1016267,271 (4.18)7
In 1895, George Whitehouse arrived at the east African post of Mombasa to perform an engineering miracle: the building of the Mombasa-Nairobi-Lake Victoria Railway - a 600-mile route that was largely unmapped and barely explored. Behind Mombasa lay a scorched, waterless desert. Beyond, a horizonless scrub country climbed toward a jagged volcanic region bisected by the Great Rift Valley. A hundred miles of sponge-like quagmire marked the railway's last lap. The entire right of way bristled with hostile tribes, teemed with lions and breathed malaria. What was the purpose of this 'giant folly' and whom would it benefit? Was it to exploit the rumoured wealth of little-known central African kingdoms? Was it to destroy the slave trade? To encourage commerce and settlement? THE LUNATIC EXPRESS explores the building of this great railway in an earlier Africa of slave and ivory empires, of tribal monarchs and the vast lands that they ruled. Above all, it is the story of the white intruders whose combination of avarice, honour and tenacious courage made them a breed apart.… (mehr)
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Colonialist nostalgia – but interesting just the same. Although purportedly about the construction of the Uganda Railway, no track gets laid until halfway through the book; instead we get an account of the history of the area that eventually becomes Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda from when it first came to the attention of Europeans – around 1550 or so – to the start of the First World War.
It’s been pointed out that the establishment of the British Empire was a pretty haphazard affair; merchants established a trading station, then some sort of armed force was needed to protect that, then a little land had to be acquired to give the army room to maneuver, then the approaches to the area had to be secured, then the supply routes had to be defended, then the next thing you know the Sun Never Sets on the British Empire.
The Uganda Railway, of course, had ties, track plates, spikes and rails made of Best Intentions. The railway was needed to get Civilization to the area and end slavery – and even the most fervent anti-Imperialist agree that ending slavery was A Good Thing - but of course the railway had to pay for itself so it needed things to export, and since the natives weren’t enthused about growing more food than they needed European farmers needed to be settled, and pretty soon the colonists began demanding protection for their livestock and crops, and then they began wanting a say in how the government was run, and the next thing you know it’s necessary to Teach the Natives a Lesson by going into a village and shooting every man, woman, and child. And, of course, I can be smug and sarcastic about it as an American – even though the place I’m writing from was taken from the Arapahoe in much the same fashion.
The story is full of interesting characters; Seyid Said, Sultan of Zanzibar; Joseph Thompson, explorer who had the unique idea that it was better to get along with the Masai than shoot them; Frederick Lugard, possibly the model for Allan Quatermain; Charles Stokes, missionary-gunrunner; Lord Delamore, who more or less singlehanded established Kenya agriculture; and J. H. Patterson, who had to build a railway bridge over the Tsavo River despite a pair of lions who developed a taste for bridgebuilders. (In a somewhat strange denouement, the Tsavo lions ended up taxidermized in the Field Museum of Chicago, a long way from home. But they were probably Cub fans anyway).
The interesting characters are almost all white; when Africans are mentioned they’re seen through white eyes – because that’s who was writing things down. Can’t be helped and not Miller’s fault, but regrettable nonetheless.
Miller’s writing style is straightforward and easy to read. As usual, I think there could be more maps. The reference list includes a lot of historical works that I’ve put on my Wish List. Worthwhile as an introduction to a part of the world I knew little about. ( )
3 abstimmen setnahkt | Jan 19, 2019 |
For me, this is one of the better books on the colony of Kenya, and the history of its entry into the Empire. Colourful, but footnoted, and containing a lot of smile time during the reading. The sections on the man eating lions of Tsavo, the only feline predators inserted into labour history, is as much fun as the movie "The Ghost in the Darkness" without the American exceptionalism of the Val Kilmer and Michael Douglas film. ( )
  DinadansFriend | Nov 11, 2016 |
This book purports to be a history of the construction of the Uganda Railway. It is
much more than this, including as it does, short but accurate and readable summaries
of the history of East Africa and the slave trade back to medieval times, the discovery
and opening up of East Africa by many famous (mostly British?) explorers and the
post WWI settlement of (what is now) Kenya. Oh, yes, it does also describe the
construction of the Uganda Railway.

A wonderful book - it is readable enough for the non-specialist, but is adequately
end-noted and referenced to enable the aspiring specialist to to take their interest
further.

One of my favourite re-reads over the years... ( )
  captbirdseye | Mar 12, 2014 |
Entertainingly written nonfiction of what lead to building a railway to an uncharted land, and the early consequences of it, until the beginning of WW1. The book shows from how small events created the present day borders, locations of cities of East Africa. And how bureaucrats were busy slowing down everything with red tape 150 years ago. Since book ends up the early years of British settlement, there was still plenty of space for everyone, and rather romantic picture of introducing civilization is seen. Only the description of relocating Masai tribe gives hints of the slippery slope of land grabbing that was ahead in future years. ( )
  suihkulokki | Jan 24, 2011 |
A very readable history of the building of the Uganda railway, dubbed "the Lunatic Line". ( )
  John5918 | Apr 30, 2006 |
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Wikipedia auf Englisch (2)

In 1895, George Whitehouse arrived at the east African post of Mombasa to perform an engineering miracle: the building of the Mombasa-Nairobi-Lake Victoria Railway - a 600-mile route that was largely unmapped and barely explored. Behind Mombasa lay a scorched, waterless desert. Beyond, a horizonless scrub country climbed toward a jagged volcanic region bisected by the Great Rift Valley. A hundred miles of sponge-like quagmire marked the railway's last lap. The entire right of way bristled with hostile tribes, teemed with lions and breathed malaria. What was the purpose of this 'giant folly' and whom would it benefit? Was it to exploit the rumoured wealth of little-known central African kingdoms? Was it to destroy the slave trade? To encourage commerce and settlement? THE LUNATIC EXPRESS explores the building of this great railway in an earlier Africa of slave and ivory empires, of tribal monarchs and the vast lands that they ruled. Above all, it is the story of the white intruders whose combination of avarice, honour and tenacious courage made them a breed apart.

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