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Seeing Vietnam: Encounters of the Road and Heart

von Susan Brownmiller

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In November 1992, shortly after the U.S. government lifted travel restrictions, Travel & Leisure magazine sent Susan Brownmiller to Vietnam on a tourist visa. "You take a lot of baggage when you go to Vietnam," her piece began. "One small suitcase, one carry-on, and two thousand pounds of disjunctive emotions napalmed into your brain from a televised war that won't go away." The inspired match between author and subject continued after the article's publication as Brownmiller immersed herself in Vietnamese history and current events, rekindling an interest that began in the 1960s. Seeing Vietnam is the result, a traveler's journey in the grand tradition of Evelyn Waugh and Graham Greene - part reportage, part impassioned memoir, part serendipitous adventure, all delivered with the acuity, wit, and political sophistication we have come to expect from her. As Brownmiller does the twist in a Hanoi disco, gorges on garlic-fried crab (while passing up the crunchy fried songbirds), bargains for hand-painted ceramics, joins a class in tai chi for older women, drinks tea with the Buddhist monks of Hue, sits crosslegged with the Bru Van Kieu near the ghostly remains of a military base, gives an impromptu English lesson to university students, is offered a pygmy slow loris on a Saigon street, and chats with representatives of some of the larger multinationals in her hotel lobby, the reader shares her intense engagement, her delight in each new encounter, and the emotional catharsis of seeing - and making friends with - a people and a country we have fought but never known.… (mehr)
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Written in 1994 when I originally read it but found it just as interesting and useful January 2015 when revisiting Vietnam. Parts of this well-written book are evergreen--for example, the sections on history and geography--while other elements have obviously changed with the 20 years that have passed. But that is the charm of this book and why I would recommend it to anyone traveling to or in Vietnam today. This 20-year gap is both amusing and enlightening as I read each chapter as I travelled many parts of the same route Brownmiller travelled. The Cham Museum in Danang remains exactly as described. However, Hoi An has become a tourist town with its main streets lined with travel agents and coffee shops. Today one can talk to anyone willing to engage with a curious visitor unlike Brownmiller's days but many of the conversations remain unchanged. On my last day I sat in a small concrete shop with its eager 30-year old owner clutching my hand as she told me of her dream to become rich taking in tourists' laundry at $1/kilo and selling cans of LaRue beer and bottled water (and renting motorbikes and providing a taxi service and ...). I thought the stroking of my hand a bit odd until later that day I read on page 45 of Brownmiller's text from 1994 "It's a Vietnamese thing, this tactile stroking. A sign of approval." ( )
  pbjwelch | Jul 25, 2017 |
XE/tr
  HollandseClub | Jul 1, 2017 |
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In November 1992, shortly after the U.S. government lifted travel restrictions, Travel & Leisure magazine sent Susan Brownmiller to Vietnam on a tourist visa. "You take a lot of baggage when you go to Vietnam," her piece began. "One small suitcase, one carry-on, and two thousand pounds of disjunctive emotions napalmed into your brain from a televised war that won't go away." The inspired match between author and subject continued after the article's publication as Brownmiller immersed herself in Vietnamese history and current events, rekindling an interest that began in the 1960s. Seeing Vietnam is the result, a traveler's journey in the grand tradition of Evelyn Waugh and Graham Greene - part reportage, part impassioned memoir, part serendipitous adventure, all delivered with the acuity, wit, and political sophistication we have come to expect from her. As Brownmiller does the twist in a Hanoi disco, gorges on garlic-fried crab (while passing up the crunchy fried songbirds), bargains for hand-painted ceramics, joins a class in tai chi for older women, drinks tea with the Buddhist monks of Hue, sits crosslegged with the Bru Van Kieu near the ghostly remains of a military base, gives an impromptu English lesson to university students, is offered a pygmy slow loris on a Saigon street, and chats with representatives of some of the larger multinationals in her hotel lobby, the reader shares her intense engagement, her delight in each new encounter, and the emotional catharsis of seeing - and making friends with - a people and a country we have fought but never known.

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