In this comprehensive guide, Barnaby Rogerson tours both the Greek south and the Turkish north of Cyprus, imparting their secrets and relating their stories. He explores the Gothic castles of the crusaders, the gorgeous painted interiors of Byzantine monasteries and the hallowed sanctuaries of antiquity; reveals hidden bays and quiet walk; details local festivals; finds the best rural hotels away from the crowds and samples the delights of meze and local wines. Eat freshly grilled trout by a mountain stream at Kakopetria. Search for the real Othello, the lost childhood of the Virgin and the talking idol of the Knights Templar. Stroll through carob and olive groves, rockroses and peonies. Marvel at Chalcolithic crucifix figurines worn 2,000 years before the birth of Christ. Sip a brandy sour overlooking the Roman ruins at Paphos. Ski down the slopes of Mount Lympus or scuba dive in the Mediterranean.