India is among the most difficult?and most rewarding?of places to travel. Some have said India stands for ""I'll Never Do It Again."" Many more are drawn back time after time because India is the best show on earth, the best bazaar of human experiences that can be visited in a lifetime. India dissolves ideas about what it means to be alive, and its people give new meaning to compassion, perseverance, ingenuity, and friendship. India?monsoon and marigold, dung and dust, colors and corpses, smoke and ash, snow and endless myth?is a cruel, unrelenting place of ineffable sweetness. Much like