Stanley Ginsberg
Autor von The Rye Baker: Classic Breads from Europe and America
Werke von Stanley Ginsberg
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Rye is a delicious and nutritious flour that is notoriously hard to work with. It has little gluten, so doughs with a high percentage of rye defy wheat-based techniques for building structure and a lighter crumb. Rye doughs are also sticky and thus difficult to handle.
Ginsberg ably explains all this and the various techniques for working with and baking rye doughs. A concise history and geography of rye and its baked products precedes this.
Where this book fell down for me was its narrow focus. Directions for the breads always use a mixer where at all possible – eschewing mixing and kneading by hand (to say nothing of folding instead of kneading). Baking always uses a pan of water to add steam, the term 'Dutch oven' appears exactly zero times. Really, who writes a book about baking, especially sourdough baking, and never even mentions Dutch ovens? Bizarre.
I feel like he copy-pasted the recipe instructions and while modifying them for the basics of the recipe, gave little thought to any idiosyncrasies such as dough slackness or when it might be better to use the aforementioned folds or a Dutch oven.
That said, the variety of recipes should satisfy everyone. They range from conventional loaves with a low-ish amount of rye (a third or so) that are more amenable to wheat-bread techniques to pure rye breads with multi-stage builds involving sponges and scalds taking two days to complete.
With a bit more care put into the recipe details, this would easily be a four-star reference-cookbook.… (mehr)