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K2: The Price of Conquest

von Lino Lacedelli

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1921,150,429 (4.13)1
* The truth regarding one of mountaineering's great controversies is revealed after more than 50 years * Photos from the historical first ascent of K2 * Uncovers personalities previously confined to the shadows, forgotten and erased incidents, and the intense emotions surrounding this event On July 31, 1954, two Italians, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, became the first humans to stand atop K2, the world's second highest mountain. The event was celebrated all over Italy with great pride, but when the team led by Ardito Desio returned home a terrible accusation was leveled at them. One of the members of the expedition, 20-year-old Walter Bonatti, insisted that the two climbers who reached the summit had put his life in danger by abandoning him before the final stretch sothat they could reach the top without him. According to the official version of the facts, written by Desio and confirmed by all the other members of the expedition, nothing untoward had happened during the climb; Bonatti's accusations were unfounded and the result of a misunderstanding. Today, more than fifty years after the event, Lino Lacedelli tells his own terrible version of the truth: in the night between July 30 and 31, he and Compagnoni deliberately failed to make their rendezvous with Bonatti, forcing him to abandon the final ascent so that they could use the two oxygen tanks that he carried with him. This is a story of courage and ambition, of glory and guilt, of more than 50 years of hiding the truth that became Lino Lacedelli'sPrice of Conquest. Lino Lacedelli, born in 1925, is one of Italy's most famous climbers, in large part because of his participation in the first ascent of K2 in 1954.… (mehr)
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Lino Lacedelli's and Giovanni Cenacchi's "K2: The Price of Conquest" is a really interesting look at the first ascent of the world's second highest mountain, K2. Lacedelli was half of the two-man duo who stood on the summit for the first time. Despite its success, this expedition has long been a source of controversy as Walter Bonatti and a Hunza porter Mahdi spent an unplanned bivouac high on the mountain because the final camp was moved to a new location.

Bonatti's charges that the camp was moved purposely to keep him from going for the summit the next day and a journalist's (later found to be libelous) charges that Bonatti, in revenge, used some of the bottled oxygen reserved for the summit team have roiled the mountaineering world for 50 years. Lacedelli's tale does much to exonerate Bonatti as well as clarify what happened on the upper slopes of the mountain.

The format of the book is kind of odd -- it reports Lacedelli's story in a series of questions and answers. Then various chapters go through portions of the controversy to show how Lacedelli's story proves and disproves some of the allegations. As a result, this is not a book you want to read without having a good understanding of not only the history of the K2 expedition, but also the controversy that surrounded it.

If you're an armchair mountaineer who can't get enough of these tales about large-scale expeditions (like me) this book is just plain fascinating. ( )
  amerynth | Aug 10, 2012 |
Bello.Lino Lacedelli intervistato pochi anni fa da Giovanni Cenacchi racconta la sua esperienza sul K2 nel 1954. Lacedelli è lontano dalla formalità del libro ufficiale di Desio e racconta con genuinità e precisione la sua ascesa al K2 e la vicenda con Walter Bonatti. Questo libro aiuta a conoscere meglio l'Italia di allora. ( )
  Iskandar_LT | Jan 2, 2011 |
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* The truth regarding one of mountaineering's great controversies is revealed after more than 50 years * Photos from the historical first ascent of K2 * Uncovers personalities previously confined to the shadows, forgotten and erased incidents, and the intense emotions surrounding this event On July 31, 1954, two Italians, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, became the first humans to stand atop K2, the world's second highest mountain. The event was celebrated all over Italy with great pride, but when the team led by Ardito Desio returned home a terrible accusation was leveled at them. One of the members of the expedition, 20-year-old Walter Bonatti, insisted that the two climbers who reached the summit had put his life in danger by abandoning him before the final stretch sothat they could reach the top without him. According to the official version of the facts, written by Desio and confirmed by all the other members of the expedition, nothing untoward had happened during the climb; Bonatti's accusations were unfounded and the result of a misunderstanding. Today, more than fifty years after the event, Lino Lacedelli tells his own terrible version of the truth: in the night between July 30 and 31, he and Compagnoni deliberately failed to make their rendezvous with Bonatti, forcing him to abandon the final ascent so that they could use the two oxygen tanks that he carried with him. This is a story of courage and ambition, of glory and guilt, of more than 50 years of hiding the truth that became Lino Lacedelli'sPrice of Conquest. Lino Lacedelli, born in 1925, is one of Italy's most famous climbers, in large part because of his participation in the first ascent of K2 in 1954.

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